March Madness, Bordeaux Style
Michel Bettane, France’s leading wine critic, has written an open letter to the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) denouncing the en primeur charade. His primary beef is that certain critics, namely James Suckling, are allowed to taste the wines and post their scores before others, and he also expresses frustration that the chateaux are increasingly reluctant to let their wines be tasted blind. He says that unless things change, he will no longer participate in the annual barrel tastings. That’s not a threat to be taken lightly, and credit to Bettane for joining Jancis Robinson in exposing what a farce this rite of spring has become. You can read his letter on the blog of the Grand Jury Européen, and the GJE’s president, Francois Mauss, also posted an interesting comment here.